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Living in and around Amish Country.
Nora Kurtz is a writer and contributor associated with the Geauga Amish Historical Library (also called the Geauga Amish History Center). She writes articles about Amish life, culture, and traditions in Northeast Ohio, including Geauga County’s large Amish community. She also writes for Southeast Geauga Quarterly published by Shetler Business Solutions.
Please show respect. If after you read the article and have questions, I’ll send them to Nora.
By Nora Kurtz.
Anyone who lives in or around a large Amish
community is probably going to be at least somewhat
familiar with ‘Amish food’.
Fried chicken, stuffing, mashed potatoes, creamed
vegetables, pies and puddings are classic wedding fare
for the community and can be found in any Amish-
owned or Amish-themed restaurant.
Some dishes are more prominent in one Amish
community than another. You would be hard-pressed to
find snitz pie (made with dried apples) in Geauga
County, but it is widespread among the Lancaster, PA
Amish families.
Pickled goods such as beets and eggs, cornmeal mush
and tomato gravy, whoopee pies, sauerkraut, soft
pretzels and homemade root beer and other foodstuffs
can be found in varying degrees across all
communities.
There is, however, a dish much lesser known outside
the Amish. This is a group of milk-based soups that can
be served hot or cold.
The Amish trace their roots to the mountains of
Switzerland during the Reformation and later to the
Rhine River Valley of southern Germany. Among the
lower class of that later region, one dish dominated the
foodscape called ‘Mus’, the ancestor of the unique dairy
soups and stews the Amish enjoy today. The base for
creating this dish was milk, lard, salt and eggs. Upper
class people could afford to add sugar and flour.
The consistency of this soup would range from
porridge-like owing to the addition of various grains to a
thin broth. Typically, in the broth form, beans, meat and
seasonal vegetables were added.
When eaten cold, fruit and honey replaced the savories
along with the addition of crumbled bread.
Three main soups still eaten among the Geauga County
Amish reflect this culinary heritage.
Growing up, in the strawberry season, my mother would
bake a dense, sweetened biscuit-like cake that very
much resembles shortbread. This was crumbled into a
bowl with heaps of fresh strawberries, a dash of sugar
and milk poured over the whole of it. This was a treat,
since strawberries were seasonal and was eaten as a
main dish, not dessert.
The 2 nd dish is a popular church meal, especially during
the winter months.
You first need homemade bread, cut or torn into large
chunks and left out for a day or so to become crusty.
Butter is browned in the bottom of large stockpots, milk
is added, seasoned with salt, and heated until barely
simmering. When hot enough, the bread is added along
with navy beans. This is called bean soup or bread
soup and ideally served with lots of black pepper.
My grandfather used to eat this with apple pie and I
don’t mean as separate dishes. The slice of pie would
go in a large soup bowl and this mixture was ladled
directly over the top. The contrast of flavors and
textures are surprising and not at all unpleasant.
The third soup is not unique to the Amish but was
adopted during colonial America, likely because it so
closely resembled ‘Mus’ and that is the oyster soup or
stew made simply with butter, salt, milk and fresh
oysters. A Christmas staple for many of our families, it
is always served alongside ham.
I was made aware that my love for these dishes may be
somewhat of an acquired taste when a friend from
another Amish community was in for a visit and tried the
bean soup for the first time. In her careful words, “I
would probably eat it again, but not right away.”
We also have several extended family members who
did not grow up eating oyster stew for the holidays, so
we serve ham and potato soup as well for Christmas.
Foods that bring back memories of the past can satisfy
the soul as much as the palate. We all have memories
associated with eating a special dish, especially around
the holidays and it can be bittersweet. May we all be so
fortunate to occasionally indulge in the good memories
brought back by the simple act of eating a beloved food with loved ones.
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